I have now surfed the Oregon coast, which puts me among the most bad-ass/stupid people on earth. God bless my outdoorsy roommate for taking me to do things I would never ever contemplate. Because who the hell surfs in Oregon? It's crazy. But you what what else is crazy? I'm pretty fucking good at it.
The second wave I caught, BOOM I'm standing up and surfing. Really, once the board is being swept up by the wave (and when I say wave, please don't think of anything more than three feet) I foud it to be pretty stable. Then you just hop up and there you go.
A few things of note:
My board was made by the Bic company and likely composed of the exact plastic that is in the pen you were writing your grocery list on.
Generally speaking, the glimmer of wet neoprene makes people look like seals.
I think my body was trying to return to the sea as I couldn't stop crying from the salt water, drooling from my exhaustive panting and snotting for no apparent reason.
But there must be a price for all this, because now I am sick and mildly halucinating. I'll try and get up some pictures when I'm less feverish.
Thank you for reading.
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